How to grow Trachycarpus
Trachycarpus is the hardiest type of of palm, and the only one which grows reliably well throughout the UK. There are around six species all originating from forests in Asia, of which the most widely cultivated is the Chinese species Trachycarpus fortunei (the northernmost naturally growing palm in the world). Also known as the chusan or windmill palm, this single-stemmed, evergreen palm has a head of fan-shaped leaves and a distinctive hairy, fibrous trunk.
Tough, robust, and needing little care, T. fortunei can be seen lending its exotic, Riviera-like appearance to gardens across the UK. It is small enough to be grown in a restricted spot such as a courtyard, roof top garden, or urban outside space, though it’s important to be aware that in a warm, sheltered spot it may eventually reach 12-15 metres in height (albeit not for several decades). It will grow quite happily in a large container if you wish to curb this potential. An alternative option is to go for the semi-dwarf species T. wagnerianus, with a more manageable maximum height of 4-8 metres.
The Indian and Nepalese T. takil is the only other species to equal T. fortunei and T. wagnerianus in hardiness, though is less widely available.
Once a trachycarpus has reached maturity (usually at around 2 metres tall, or less for container-grown or semi-dwarf forms), it may start to flower, erupting in enormous, yellow flowerheads. This is by no means an annual occurrence, tending to be most likely the year after a long, hot summer. Female plants can go on to develop blue-black fruits.
Key Information
Soil pH
Position
Hardiness
Where & when to plant Trachycarpus
Position - Full sun or dappled shade. For best results go for a sheltered spot out of strong winds – in an exposed spot trachycarpus leaves quickly become shredded and scruffy.
Soil - Well-draining and fertile. Trachycarpus is drought tolerant once established.
Flowering Period - Early summer
Hardiness - Hardy. Those mentioned above have a rating of H5 (-10 to -15°C).
For best results plant trachycarpus from mid spring to early summer, which allows it plenty of time to establish before winter. If you buy your plant later in the year, it can be safest to keep it in a pot until the following spring, potting up into a slightly larger container if necessary.
Trachycarpus is ideal for exotic, jungle-themed schemes, and a high tolerance of pollution and salt makes it a popular choice for urban and coastal gardens. It is happy to spend life in a large container, meaning it can be grown on balconies, patios, and decking.
How to plant Trachycarpus
Water your plant well and allow to drain before planting. Then:
· For planting in the open ground, dig the soil area over, removing any large stones and weeds and breaking up any lumps. Now is your chance to mix in plenty of organic matter such as manure or garden compost.
· Rake level and firm with your heels. Rake level again.
· Dig a hole twice the width of the root ball.
· Place the plant in the hole, ensuring the top of the root ball sits level with the surface of the soil. To high and the roots can dry out, too low and the stem can rot.
· Backfill with soil and firm in gently with your foot.
· Soak well with water.
· Mulch around the base with well-rotted organic matter.
- For planting in a container, first choose an appropriately sized pot. The best practice (particularly with something relatively slow growing such as trachycarpus) is to start just a few centimetres larger than the root ball and repot into a slightly larger size every year or two. Always ensure there are plenty of drainage holes in the bottom.
· If you are using a large or heavy pot, it can be a good idea to fill and plant it in situ to save yourself the trouble of moving once full.
· Use a good quality potting compost with plenty of horticultural grit mixed in, and, if not already present in the compost (check the description on the bag) some slow-release fertiliser granules.
· Start by partially filling the pot with compost; enough so that when placed on it the top of the roots sits about 3 centimetres lower than the top of the pot.
· Infill all the space surrounding the roots with compost, firming down with your fingers then adding a little more so the plant is held tight.
· Pick up the pot (if you can!) and lightly tap on the potting bench or ground a few times to help further settle the compost around the plant.
· Soak well with water.
· A mulch with horticultural grit will look attractive and help to prevent a ‘cap’ or crust forming on the top of the compost (something container plants can suffer due to the artificial nature of their watering).
What to plant with Trachycarpus
To achieve a dense, tropical look, combine trachycarpus with a lush mix of bold foliage plants such as musa, ensete, fatsia, and phormium. Add bright, jewel-like flowers like kniphofia, dahlia, canna, and agapanthus for striking pops of colour. Not all of these are as hardy as trachycarpus and may need a little help to get through winter, though the results will be well worth the effort!
How to care for Trachycarpus
Pruning and Deadheading
Trachycarpus requires little care other than the removal of leaves as they turn brown. Cutting as close to the trunk as you can without damaging it offers the most aesthetically pleasing results.
Watering
Trachycarpus does best with regular watering for its first couple of growing seasons in the ground to encourage root establishment. After this it should be largely self-sufficient in all but the most prolonged periods of hot, dry weather; particularly with an annual mulch to lock in moisture. More on this in our ‘Feeding’ section below.
Container-grown trachycarpus has less access to moisture and will need to be watered regularly throughout every growing season, aiming for infrequent big soakings rather than little and often. Try to avoid the compost drying out completely, being aware that this can happen in as little as 24 hours during the height of summer and sometimes even less for very full containers. From mid-autumn, the British climate tends to take over watering needs, though do remember to step in in the event of an unseasonably dry spell.
Feeding
On healthy, fertile soil, an annual mulch of well-rotted organic matter should provide sufficient nutrients for your trachycarpus. This has the added benefit of suppressing weeds and locking in moisture. Autumn and spring are the best times to carry out mulching.
For an extra boost (most needed in the first few years of the plant being in the ground, or annually if growing in poor soil), apply a general-purpose granular feed such as blood, fish, and bone to the surface of the soil and lightly work it in. This is known as a ‘top dress’ and is best done in late winter or early spring.
Container-grown plants rely even more on the gardener for nutrition. Get off to a flying start by making sure you use a good quality compost, then throughout the growing season (March to September) apply a liquid feed every 3-4 weeks. Remember to repot into a slightly larger pot using fresh compost every couple of years. In the intervening years, and every year once this is no longer feasible, carry out an annual topdress in spring. Scrape away the top 5 centimetres of compost and replace with fresh, remembering to mix in a little general-purpose slow-release feed.
Cold Protection
Once established, trachycarpus is hardy throughout most of the UK without the need for additional protection. Younger specimens can be more susceptible to winter damage, so for these it can be worth insulating the crown (where the growing point is) by stuffing it with straw during the coldest months.
As with all plants, trachycarpus grown in a container is more vulnerable to the elements. Move to a sheltered, protected environment if you can, otherwise wrap the container in bubblewrap or hessian, and insulate the crown as above.
Pests and Diseases
Trachycarpus is considered trouble free.
How to propagate Trachycarpus
The best way to propagate this hardy palm is by collecting and sowing seed, though trachycarpus is only likely to produce viable seed if the following conditions are met:
· It has reached maturity (see ‘Overview’ above).
· It is a female form grown in the vicinity of a male form (there is no way of knowing what you’re getting when buying young plants. It’s a simple case of the more you plant, the greater your chances are of getting each sex).
· There was a long, hot summer the previous year.
If the stars align and you spot marble-sized, blue-black fruits on your trachycarpus, proceed as follows:
1. Once you’re confident the fruits are fully ripe, pick from the tree and remove the fleshy outer coat. Soak the seeds in water for a few days.
2. Sow in individual modules or 2-3 seeds per 9 centimetre pot, at a depth the same as the width of the seed, using a rich potting compost.
3. Water gently with a fine spray until it is evenly moist but not waterlogged.
4. Place the pots in a sheltered, frost-free, well-lit position, such as a coldframe, unheated greenhouse, or cool windowsill.
5. Germination can take 1-7 months. Water regularly throughout the warmer months, keep barely moist during winter.
6. Pot on into individual 9 centimetre pots once seedlings are large enough to handle.
7. Plant out into the garden as above, once the first leaf is around 5 centimetres long.
Where seeds aren’t available, an alternative approach is to look out for suckers arising from the base of the plant and use these for propagation:
1. In spring, sever the suckers closely to the plant using a sharp knife.
2. Pot into individual 9 centimetre pots filled with a well-draining, gritty compost.
3. Water lightly and grow on in a well-lit coldframe, unheated greenhouse, or cool windowsill.
4. Water regularly throughout the warmer months, keep barely moist during winter.
5. Expect plants ready to go out into the garden the following year.
* Many plants carry Plant Breeders Rights and cannot be propagated for commercial purposes.
Common Trachycarpus Questions
· How tall do trachycarpus grow in the UK?
In a warm, sheltered spot trachycarpus can reach 12-15 metres, though it’s usually safe to expect something more like 6-8 metres.
Container-grown or dwarf specimens (such as T. wagnerianus) remain much smaller.
· Can you keep trachycarpus in a pot?
Absolutely, trachycarpus will happily spend life in a pot. Follow our watering and feeding advice to see your specimen thrive.
· Do palm trees need a lot of sun?
Full sun is best, though light dappled shade is also fine.
· Is trachycarpus often mistaken for another plant?
A similar-looking plant is the Mediterranean native species, Chamaerops humilis. While its leaves bear a striking resemblance to those of trachycarpus, it is much shorter, multi-stemmed, and not quite as hardy.
· The leaves of my trachycarpus got battered in a storm. Will it recover?
Yes, don’t worry. It should send out a crop of fresh, new leaves next year. Remove the damaged ones following our pruning advice above.
